Lodge, Luxury, Chimp, Greystoke, Tanzania, Tanganyika

On the edge of the forest, on a wide golden beach, looking out across the clear waters of Lake Tanganyika, exotic barefoot luxury and indulgent living serve as the base for trekking out into the wilderness to drop in on man’s closest relative.

Kangwena Beach lies along the eastern shores of the Lake, sheltered by the dense forests of the Mahale Mountains and is the isolated home of the world’s largest population of chimpanzees. Within hiking distance is the 50 strong M-group studied by Dr Toshisada Mishida - one of the most habituated in the world - making Greystoke the most incredible location for observing and photographing these wonderful and gentle cousins of ours - captains of industry and rock stars have been known to weep!

Hiking through the forest itself is very special, with nine other primate species, leopards, birds, butterflies, giant vines and waterfalls - the nearest road is 100kms away - this is pristine widerness. Out of the forest, six hugely flamboyant tents, under shaggy makuti thatch with stylish bohemian bathrooms attached, are deeply comfortable and furnished elegantly with local fabrics, whilst the beach is ideal for sun worshipping and the crystal lake waters sparkle blue and gold in the foreground. The bandas, made from recycled dhow timber have airy upper chill-out decks and are open-fronted, inviting in the lake breeze and the soothing sound of waves lapping the shore. They are perfect for the most demanding castaway and the funky beach bar is perched on a rocky promontory at one end of the bay, looking ‘due sundowner’.

Cruising the lake aboard the dhow Kiko is spellbindingly beautiful; taking sundowners as one watches the light conjure up the many shades and hues in the waters of this, the world’s deepest and Africa’s most beautiful lake. Snorkelling, swimming, picnics and fishing; watch the hippos walking below you or drop anchor in a secluded bay - a perfect rest from mountainous forest trekking.

Staff from the Hatongwe tribe are superb and extremely welcoming. The managaress and chef are magicians, preparing exceptional cuisine which includes fresh fruit, cooked breakfasts and fresh-water, Tanganyikan sashimi. Dining in the exotic thatched mess is a sumptuous affair, the table raised above fine white sand on a wooden dais and up above, the deck is strewn with cushions - the ideal venue for after dining indolence. Lake Tanganyika has captivated many early colonial lunatics was the inspiration for C.S.Forester’s The African Queen and more latterly, Bill Gates declared this his favourite place on earth - one can easily understand why.