The Artichoke

Global Artichoke's quarterly newsletter which aims to skirt the most salient and topical issues in the world of travel whilst gently poking fun and, with any luck, shedding a little light on some of the more interesting ones...

Winter Issue 2006

The Perfect Summer Villa
A pool, by the sea and with an amazing cook - bliss. But where?
 Winter has arrived at home and perversely thoughts of lounging by a villa pool in the Mediterranean seem most appealing! It’s certainly time to put on one’s thinking cap about where to go and when. Should it be the Tuscan hills or Sardinia, Mallorca or the Amalfi coast, Corsica or the Luberon? Global Artichoke has fabulous villas in all of these locations and we have continued our extensive travels and investigations in search of those perfect properties for your summer holidays - on the coast or in the country.
 Several fantastic properties on Monte Argentario in Tuscany have presented themselves as well as the fabulous Villa Smeralda on the beach in Sardinia and exotic Villa Il Poeta on the island of Ischia. Lovers of Provence will cherish Mas St Joseph with its private tennis court and stylish furnishings and in Tuscany we are thrilled to include elegant La Limonaia on a beautiful country estate near Siena and Villa Spada in the hills above Lucca. Further south, in the land of De Cecco pasta, famous for food and wine and untouched by tourism, we have discovered a lovely hilltop property, only twenty minutes from the beach; and this is just a taster!

Darkest Africa
Travelling to the remotest corners of the dark continent has its rewards and surprises
 For many years now, some of the senior management’s close affinity to monkeys has been steering them towards those fantastic areas of Tanzania where one may see wild Africa and meet those evolutionary cousins of ours. And so it was that Global Artichoke recently followed an incredible southern Tanzanian circuit which must represent the pinnacle of African safari. Katavi is only for the seasoned African hand.
 This really wild park offers authentic challenges but the rewards are amazing - game is un-habituated to man and reacts entirely naturally! - and Palahala tented camp provides the luxury and style in perfect balance which one appreciates so keenly after a day in the bush.
 A short flight takes one to Greystoke at Mahale on Lake Tanganyika, where the shabby-chic, designer beach style, glittering waters and unique chimp tracking form a perfect combination - one of the most special lodges we know.
 Further down the lake is Lupita Island - one of the most extraordinary lodges in Africa and utterly fabulous. Ultimate luxury in the middle of nowhere - plunge pools, wine cellar, gourmet cuisine and enormous, open-sided suites - looking out over the Congo and darkest Africa all around. Breathtaking.

Tailor Made
“Self-drive safari into the Namib? A Champagne to Luberon wine tour or perhaps a horse-riding safari across the Masai Mara? Let me just take your collar size, sir.”
 Occasionally a really hare-brained scheme finds its way to the Mansions’ door, for an extraordinary trip, well off the beaten track and considerably in variance to the normal modu operandi. So often has this been occurring of late that we are fast becoming the Saville Row of made-to-measure holidays.
 This year, Cesar Zandberg - the Namibian guide who teaches Ray Meares his bush craft - arranged to take our guests up to the Angolan border on a three-week, self-drive, BoysOwn, Namibian safari. The ‘Desert Wallahs’ will traverse some of the oldest desert in the world and we hear some of them are already contemplating their own TV shows!
 Mrs A herself guided a private wine tour which meandered gracefully from Reims to Avignon, visiting small vineyards and fabulous chateaux en route. The party have requested an Italian version next - and everyone (including Mr A) is eager for the date to come around.

British Bolt-holes
 Continuing the series, The Gurnard’s Head just outside St Ives in Cornwall is an eminent bolt-hole at any time of year. Sister to The Griffin at Felin Fach, the dining room is comfortably haphazard, food excellent and there are luxurious, Egyptian goings-on upstairs.

Jolly Ski
 As long as it’s not for School half-term or the Easter holidays, we can certainly find you the best chalet available for your ski party at any time. If either of those silly seasons are of interest, however - or if you are looking for something really special - book at least a year in advance and revel in your forward-thinking, just like these jolly gals. Within the walls of Artichoke Mansions we have an original sloane ranger chalet girl and several ex-ski pros so please test their expertise (or at least be charmed by their mellifluous tones).

Winter Villas
 At any time of year, there is a villa somewhere, of course, where it is Summer. At The Channel House this seems to be pretty much all year round and one can easily understand why the sun-loving pirate in question built his idyllic hideaway here in the Caribbean - on a deserted white coral sandy beach in the exotic Turks & Caicos. No doubt he used to dive on the reef, drink cocktails on the wrap-around deck and enjoy the sea views until the local authorities caught up with him and strung him up.
 In Colombia this winter, one will find the Hay Literary Festival hosted in fabulous Cartagena (obviously not literally Hay) from January 25th-28th. Why not pop over and stay at The House of the Blue Balcony in the centre of the old medieval sea port and enjoy a week or two of café culture, superb fun and some beautifully constructed sentences - or alternatively stay here and read The Artichoke.
 In the Global Artichoke portfolio, fabulous houses are waiting in Africa, India, Sri Lanka and Sydney downunder but never forget that 30 degree Morocco and its rich culture is only 31/2 hours away. These days one really can enjoy a house in the sun at any time of year - without the remotest fear of capital punishment.

Palahala Pick-me-up
 Steve, the amazing chef and Maitre D’ of Palahala Lodge, Katavi National Park, Tanzania gave us his secret recipe under considerable duress. Simple, easy and absolutely delicious! We had this pud at Palahala and absolutely would not leave until we had it in our possession!
12 Green Bananas
40g Plain Flour
3 tblsp Cayenne Pepper
5 tblsp Ground Ginger
2 tblsp Paprika.
 Slice the bananas diagonally about 3mm thick. Mix all the dry ingredients in a bowl, dust the bananas with the powder, shake off & deep fry till golden brown.
For the Coconut Cream:
Coconut Milk
Sugar
Salt
 Mix all the ingredients in a frying pan, bring to the boil slowly. Once the sugar has melted, remove from the heat & pour over the bananas.

Summer Issue 2006

The Big Number
 Following the wisdom in the old adage ‘if you can’t beat them, join them’, the decision was taken to move Global Artichoke - and Mrs A - into lovely new premises, next door to her favourite wine merchant. Our team of accountants have calculated that the savings we will make by eradicating the travelling costs to and from Knightwick Wines could usefully be applied to our new website, a company pension plan or the debt of a small African nation. The upshot of all this is that if one ‘logs on’ to www.globalartichoke.com one will be thoroughly amazed by the brilliance of our new ‘virtual shop window’ and if the only side affect is that Mrs A’s copy writing becomes a little more flowery with increasingly wistful applications of Sauvignon, then so be it. Indeed, so successful has been the launch of the new company at the end of last year, that we have had to install a new switchboard at Artichoke Mansions to cope with the traffic and, along with it, a new number. Bearing in mind that it has taken the most talented, high-flying executives amongst us the full six months to memorise the last number, we have had to succumb to pressure from the top and adopt the telephone number of Mrs A’s hair stylist with one digit replaced. In the future, when the need arises for Global Artichoke’s personal service on an African Safari, an Exclusive Villa in Italy, the Med or somewhere more exotic, a Caribbean jaunt, an Indian tour - New Zealand, Australia, Canada, Morocco, Sri Lanka – dial 01886 853920. And if you do happen to misdial, Snippets do a particularly fine blue rinse.

The Lasting Magic of Italy
 Italy continues to appeal today as it has done for centuries and for many visitors it is somewhere to return annually. With that in mind Global Artichoke also continues to strive to seek out new and exciting villas and hotels across this diverse and rich country. Puglia is becoming increasingly sought after and the arrival of Trulli Cervarolo (shown above) in the Global Artichoke portfolio earlier this year was an exciting one. Designed to the very highest of standards with an eye-catching beachstyle pool surround and minimalist interiors, Trulli Cervarolo is ideally situated in the heart of Puglia offering the opportunity to explore a region steeped in history and tradition...not to mention the superb food and wine.
 Another very special find is Relais La Sommita - a boutique hotel hidden away in the white-washed town of Ostuni - with spa, fantastic restaurant and just 12 rooms, perfect for honeymooners or maybe a long weekend break.
 Further north in Tuscany, Hotel Le Fontanelle in the heart of Chianti is about to open. This luxury hotel with indoor and outdoor pools and spa is the result of several years’ hard work by its delightful owner and cannot be too highly recommended.
 In the heart of the Val d’Orcia of Tuscany we are thrilled to include Buon Riposo and Casellaccia in our collection of larger properties - perfect for family re-unions. With interior designs that one cannot fail to adore, large heated swimming pools, hot tubs and the provision of all manner of additional services these properties are hard to beat. Southern Tuscany is magical and continues to conjour excitement.

India
Exhilarating, Exhausting, Enchanting
 If one appreciates the cultural richness, diversity and beauty in Italy - and the same experiences are enjoyed in Morocco, with the volume set a couple of notches higher – then India, with its complex history, colour and magic, anachronisms, frustrations and fascinations, presents the visitor with a completely unabashed rock concert for the senses! It isn’t surprising, therefore, that many visitors get hooked on this wondrous land of incredible sights and experiences. Whether one is visiting the Taj Mahal and Udaipur in the North or the backwaters of Kerala and Cochin in the South, a carefully planned journey is essential in order to absorb and appreciate this wondrous land, whilst taking time to relax and reflect, removed from the cultural hurly-burly. Global Artichoke is thrilled to provide the very best personalised itineraries featuring the most special hotels and homes throughout the subcontinent. If Italy or Morocco have captured your heart, then India will certainly turn your head and quicken your pulse!

New Discoveries
 In order to avoid any disruption of natural rythmn, our very own Mrs A has chosen to absent herself from the office move and undertake a tour of the English-listening world, with many remarkable results. Global Artichoke now has portfolios of hotels and private properties in these countries the like of which have never before been seen in the UK - the fabulous tented Clayoquot Camp in Canada, Great Mercury Island in New Zealand and many amazing things going on ‘Down Under’. To top it all we have collected together the best ‘British Bolt-holes’ - a history of those establishments to which Mr A (Adventurer and bon viveur) has retreated over the years when the going got tough or to enjoy sensational hospitality and great food without all that flying.

Diary Dates
 The time to start thinking about your Winter Sun, Skiing trip and next year’s Villa - especially if you want just the right property for a special occasion - is now! Several of our most popular houses are already booked in July and August 2007 and ski chalets for the half-term week are going fast. It is very difficult to think ahead to next summer when this year’s has only just started but the rewards are enormous - the perfect villa at (quite often) last year’s price and no last minute scrabble to settle for second best or the worry of risking an internet villa. If one can look ‘out of season’ (when many Mediterranean countries are at their best) the picture is much rosier - September in Tuscany or Provence, May in Puglia or Mallorca – but no matter what your wish or when you require it, Global Artichoke will always do its utmost to find you the perfect destination.

Bruschetta di Carciofi
 Globe artichokes have been the subject of admiration in that other national periodical, The Telegraph, lately - and so here is another great recipe for our favourite vegetable.
1 Lemon
4 Large globe artichokes
3 tbsp Extra virgin olive oil pepper
2 Garlic cloves, very finely chopped
10 Fresh mint leaves, chopped
3 tbsp Double cream
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
For The Bruschetta:
8 Slices ciabatta or other crusty Italian bread
3 Garlic cloves
Extra virgin olive oil
 First, halve the lemon and squeeze into a bowl of cold water large enough to hold the prepared artichokes. Drop in the squeezed fruit. Prepare the artichokes by stripping off all the leaves and discarding them. Cut each stripped artichoke into quarters, remove the chokes with a teaspoon and drop them into the bowl.
 Pour the olive oil into a pan, add the chopped garlic and heat until sizzling. Drain the artichokes and add them to the pan. Stir carefully then add just enough water to cover them. Simmer gently for 1 hour or until completely softened and almost falling apart (stir occasionally and keep the pan from drying out). Stir the mint, cream and seasoning into the pan. Prepare the bruschetta. Brown the bread on both sides, preferably over a wood fire, then rub the garlic over the hot toast, pressing hard for more or gently for subtle flavour. Drizzle each slice of toast with the olive oil. Heat through the Artichoke topping and then spoon generously on to the bruschetta.

Stop Press
 Ca di Carlino is one of our most popular small villas. Situated in northern Tuscany, Ca di Carlino has been the favourite of prominent statesmen and discerning Italophiles alike, looking for an authentic Italy, beautiful surroundings and privacy. Ca di Carlino is available for the week of the 26th August this year due to a last minute cancellation.
 The Gecko on Lefkada is available for the week of the 20th August - this stylish villa sleeps 4 has 2 pools and a view to the sea. The Gecko has recently been the subject of journalistic interest and is a remarkable property. Please call for details.

Moroccan Winter
  “It’s not natural” crys Mildred (on the tea trolley at Artichoke Mansions) when we suggest 25 to 30 dry heat through to November and again from late January onwards - and only a 31/2hr Easyjet flight away. Incredible villas & hotels, magical light, exotic colour, fascinating culture and great food - “Give me rain and sleet every time.” says M. Her wish may well come true.

Winter Issue 2005

Blooming Lovely!
From strangely shaped beginnings often do wondrous events blossom forth and this is not only true for vegetable cultivation for, after careful nurturing, liberal applications of fertiliser and constant and unrelenting irrigation we have finally arrived. A team of travel professionals whose individual petals of specialisation combine to create an entire artichoke of worldwide knowledge!
  Global Artichoke has, over the years, put together the most remarkable collection of luxurious private houses and villas, each with its own particular character and all sharing the highest qualities; and this is coupled with an unstinting commitment to unearth the most fascinating hotels and lodges from around the world, bringing about an ever-changing portfolio of extraordinary destinations to visit.

  The key is personal service. Every brochure is tailor-made because every request is different and we have no standard letters because no relationship is the same. We visit every private villa and hotel before we send a client and make sure that this destination or house is the best possible choice by talking it through in detail and taking the time to understand clients’ needs. This is why so many come back to Global Artichoke, year after year - just like hardy perennials!
  The name? Well, apart from being the embodiment of our many faceted levels of expertise in luxury travel on a worldwide scale - and besides a rather tenuous allusion to those finials, occasionally found on the gateposts of some of our grander private villas - simply put, we like it; particularly when dipped in vinaigrette!

Of Corse
Corsica, an island steeped in a history characterised by its distinctive French and Italian influences, provides the visitor with spectacular mountain scenery, sandy beaches lined with pine trees, crystal clear waters and a tangible proud patriotism. Our recent visit to the island brought about encounters with a people who clearly do not think of themselves as anything but very Corsican.
  Extremely varied, the Corsican scenery offers a wealth of different experiences and wonderful places to explore, complemented by a delicious Mediterranean cuisine, washed down by some superb local wines.

  From Ajaccio we travelled through the delightful hilltop village of Sartene and south to Bonifaccio, famous for its limestone cliffs which plunge into the sea and an array of caves and grottos. Although slightly more on the beaten track, Bonifaccio is well worth a visit as is the experience of standing on the cliffs looking across to nearby Sardinia.
 At the south east of the island one comes to the charming village of Pinarello, just north of Porto Vecchio, where one finds an enormous choice of sheltered sandy beaches. The Hotel Cala Rossa is a luxurious destination here, set back from a beautiful private beach with interesting rocky outcroppings and a fascinating view, whilst just up the road is Villa Capicciola, situated immediately behind a lovely beach within a small and unspoilt bay.
  Driving through the mountains is captivating and the historic capital of Corte, still the main university town, is a great centre for keen walkers who can enjoy the myriad of routes through the hills, including the famous GR20. The backbone of mountains which run the length of the island are dramatic and create a spectacular backdrop. Beyond Corte, the windswept, rugged north of the island brings the bastion city of Calvi, Marina de Davia and Lumio.
  It is in this stunning region that we are delighted to have discovered some wonderful new villas, all with impressive sea views along the rugged coast and the luxury of private pools - ideally suited to families and groups of friends. There is the opportunity to charter a yacht here - a wonderful way to explore the beaches of the ‘Desert des Agriates’.
  The aroma of the Corsican Maquis is distinct and unforgettable, carried by the breeze for miles across the sea. An unspoilt island - and the Corsican people wish to keep it that way - full of natural beauty, a relaxed ambience and an appealing climate, we would encourage you to visit soon and sample the many attractive facets of this delightful holiday destination.

Wine Travels
Mrs A is thrilled to be organising a wine tour in May 2007 beginning in Reims, the heart of Champagne country and finishing in the beautiful, historic city of Avignon in Provence.
  En route she will be visiting a number of fine vineyards and each evening dinner will be accompanied by a spot of ‘instruction’ by a sommelier from the local area. The hotels she will stay in have been carefully selected for their individuality, quality of service, location and, of course, outstanding cuisine and cellar.  There will also be time to explore local markets, play a round of golf or a game of tennis and plenty of opportunity to relax and learn more during visits to some very special, smaller vineyards.
  If you are interested in getting a group of friends together to go on a wine tour please do contact Mrs A who would love to discuss your ideas. She already has plans for tours in Puglia, Tuscany and Sicily - where she is very well connected, as they say. The rest of the team will remain in the sobering surroundings of Artichoke Mansions with our print of Bacchus on the wall over the water bowser.

Coast or Countryside?
In years past the popular trend has been towards the luxury private villa in the countryside; set amidst cypress trees, rolling vineyards and hills of olive trees, this is the romantic idyll, with several pretty hilltop villages nearby where one could sample the delicious local cuisine washed down by an unlabelled bottle of wine. These days, the beleagured family holiday demands for the beautiful private villa to come equipped with beach, sea and pool besides and as a result, these rare houses are extremely hard to come by. In fact, unless one is fortunate enough to find that really special private villa by the sea then perhaps one should reconsider some of the criteria and look to the hills instead.
  Global Artichoke strives continually to find only the most special properties, ensuring that if our clients do not end up in quite the location they originally envisaged, they will nonetheless be thrilled by the end result.
  With our hugely varied (but not large) portfolio of private villas there is something to suit every taste. In Greece, the haven for relaxation by the sea with plenty of sunshine thrown in, Kalithea and The Gecko are splendid villas, whose owners fully understand our needs and are only too pleased to arrange day trips on sun-drenched boats to deserted coves. Amazing Villa Bianca in Puglia, Ezda Goizegi in Ciboure (near Biarritz) and our sophisticated villas on the Amalfi coast and Sicily all satisfy a yearning for the sea and are highly sought after.
  Meanwhile, in the heart of the Tuscan countryside, it is hard to beat houses like Casello and Casa di Monti; or the enchanting Casa Glyn in the hills of Lunigiana or Le Luc, in Pays de Basque, a magical family house with gardens and woodland for adventures but only a twenty minute’ drive to the sea...
  Global Artichoke will always find the best villa for you be it on the coast or in the countryside - and if we cannot help, we will try to point you in the direction of someone who can - but don’t leave it too late!

The Africa House
Every one of the fabulous lodges and safari camps around the world owes its existence to a pioneering character - the more fabulously dramatic the lodge and the greater the challenges in its creation, the more exceptional the man or woman behind it. Take Tongabezi at Victoria Falls, for example or Tena Tena in the South Luangwa, Loisaba on the edge of Kenya’s Laikipia or The Wolwedans Camps in the Namibrand; all of them astounding achievements and the homes of remarkable people.
  When living and working in the bush it is, of course necessary to offset the strain with as much luxurious compensation as possible - incredible views, for one, would seem to be a must when offered the pick of the sites on which to build. Unregulated building would also seem to be beneficial when letting one’s imagination run riot in already breathtaking natural surroundings. Sumptuous comfort, to relieve the aches and pains of a day machete-ing through the undergrowth and a full staff, dedicated to pampering every need, would also seem to be obvious ‘must haves’.
  Imagine our relief when, in all our travels around the world thus far, we have not been disappointed in the care with which such lodge owners and pioneers treat themselves. Imagine also, a portfolio of these houses, available to rent - for Global Artichoke has just such a collection: The African Houses.
  From The Private Camp in Namibia, Jembisa Lodge in Limpopo, Tangala on the Zambezi, Robins House in the South Luangwa, Shiwa Ng’andu in Northern Zambia, to Alfajiri on the Kenyan coast and Laragai, Loisaba, Kifaru and Lewa Houses in Kenya’s beautiful heartland there may be a house to tempt the pioneer (and lover of luxurious travel) in any of us.