Tuscany

A large and varied region of Italy, many observers regard Tuscany as the area which is quintissentially 'Italian' and offering the 'best' of Italy. Certainly for anyone visiting Italy for the first time Tuscany is the ideal starting point. The 'lingua Toscana' is the purest dialect in the country, the countryside is gentle with rolling hills and natural beauty (often seemingly untouched since the Middle Ages) and of course, Tuscany was the birthplace of the Renaissance. The Tuscan people are more reserved than the people in the South but nonetheless they are friendly and open and fiercely proud of being 'Tuscan'. They live comfortably and happily amid the history and natural beauty of their surroundings with hearty food from the land including a host of wild game as well as fish stew from the Mare Tirreno not to mention the excellent red wines - the very best being from Chianti in the centre of Tuscany between Siena and Florence.

Everywhere there is beauty, history and culture and every fantasy from your days as an armchair traveller will be satisfied. The steep hills of the eastern and central part of Tuscany, latticed by olive orchards and vineyards, are if anything more beautiful than in the photo books. The coast and countryside of the Maremma near Porto Ercole and Monte Argentario is stunningly beautiful and unspoilt and everywhere there is history, from the Etruscan stronghold of Fiesole to the Roman colony of Volterra to the Renaissance splendour of Florence.

Please scroll down to or <click> on the link for the region or subject you are looking for.
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Lunigiana
Chianti & Val d'Elsa (including Siena & Florence)
Southern Tuscany
Lucca & Environs
Maremma & Argentario
Tuscan Cuisine
Festivals
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Lunigiana

Lunigiana is the region to the extreme north of the Tuscany, situated between Liguria and Emilia Romagna along the course of the river Magra and its affluents and to the north of Lucca and Pisa. With its hills, steep valleys, green meadows and high mountains, it is surrounded by the Appennines and the Apuan Alps. Lunigiana is a small homogenous region, relatively undiscovered by visitors with hot summers and cold winters.

History
Lunigiana is an historical region of Tuscany and Liguria. It owns its name to the city of Luni, an ancient Etruscan city, and then Roman colony since 2 BC. Here, the Liguri people settled and they left as their legacy ‘le statue stele’. In the fifth century Lunigiana was robbed by the Vandals, and then by the Longobards of Rotari.
At the end of the first millenium, the earl-bishops of Luni and the Malaspina family fought for domination of Lunigiana. The dispute was finally resolved in favour of the Malaspina who then started their rule of the region. The successive fragmentations of several feuds, due to the peculiar division of the Malaspina (every male descendant inherited a part of the feuds) led to a quick decline in favour of The Republic of Florence, and also from time to time, Lucca, Genova and Parma.

In 1797, Napoleon included Lunigiana in the Cisalpina Republic, and in 1802 Lunigiana was made part of the Italian Republic that included Austrian Lombardy, Valtellina, part of the State of the Church and Modena. After the Congress of Vienna in 1814, the ancient Lunigiana Region was divided amongst the Rulers of Sardinia and the Dukes of Modena and Parma. Most of historical Lunigiana is consequently within modern day Tuscany although it is very mcuh an area with its own character, history and culture.

Fivizzano is situated in the widest valley of Lunigiana extending from the Appenines to the Apuan Alps. The numerous valleys, with the tributaries of Rosaro, Mommio and Lucido all meet the course of the Aulella River. The landscape here is beautiful with fabulous views everywhere. Considered the Florence of Lunigiana, Fivizzano has always been an important centre and the many castles, churches and noble palaces are evidence of this. Fivizzano gave itself to the Medici family in the XV century and remained in their possession until the arrival of the Lorena. The walls of Fivizzano were erected by order of Cosimo de' Medici in 1540, while the baroque font of the main square was constructed during the rule of Cosimo III in 1683. Beyond the walls, is the village of the Verrucola where the castle of the Verrucola lies, erected by Spinetta Malaspina the Great. Fivizzano was the birthplace of Jacopo of Fivizzano, one of the first printers.
 
Every summer in July, the “Disfida degli arceri di terra e di corte” fill with people from the medieval villages. Nearby, one can visit the Romanesque church of Saint Paul of Vendaso, the village of Soliera with the sanctuary of the Madonna of the Necks, the villages of Gragnola with the castle and Vinca, famous for its bread. In addition there is the Botanical Garden of the Frignoli, the village of Sassalbo and the delightful villages of Casole, Bagnone and Fosdinovo.

Food
Lunigiana is located among regions of strong gastronomic traditions. It is characterised by delicate and strong tastes, and its specialities originate from simple ingredients. Before being famous for its history or its nature, Lunigiana became well-known for its cuisine, thanks above all to the expert use of the many wild herbs  growing in the area. The cake of grass (torta d'erbi) is a splendid example. It is a local pie made with a base of light pastry and filled with field grasses, leeks and spinach. Testaroli are perhaps the most famous dish made from a batter of wheat flour, water and salt which is cooked in large cast iron pans with lids. They form a sort of pancake which is then boiled and cut up into small strips, usually served with pesto or mushrooms sauce. Panigacci are another speciality of the area and they are made of a batter which is cooked in red hot clay dishes over an open fire. They are then served as hot crispy pancakes filled with Parma ham, salami, coppa, stracchino cheese or nutella.

Lunigiana is proud of its cured mearts such as spalla cotta, culatello, salami, and its sheep and goats cheeses. Chestnuts and the mushrooms are a great resource of Lunigiana. Chestnuts are used for the flour, and its leaves for the baking of foods. Pattona is a chestnut batter cooked in clay dishes and served with ricotta and salami .  Funghi  can be found everywhere in the woods of Lunigiana. They can be served with pasta in a sauce or often with cream in a sauce with meat. Cakes vary from dry ones like the almond cake such as Pasteriala to the creamy ones such as the Amor in Pontremoli.

Francigena Way
At the beginning of the second millenium, Europe was covered by a multitude of pilgrims visiting the sacred places of Christianity. There were three key places to visit: Rome, Jerusalem and Santiago de Compostela. One of the most important roads leading to Rome was the Francigena Way or Romea Way. The memory of the Francigena Way was saved by great pilgrims of the past, the most famous and the first in describing it, Sigerico, Archbishop of Canterbury. He recorded his pilgrimage from Rome to England, and in particular the six stages passing through Lunigiana: the monastry of San Benedetto next to the step of the Cisa (Montelungo), Puntrembel (Pontremoli), Aguilla (Aulla), Santo Stefano, Sanctam Mariam de Sardena (Sarzana) and finally Luni.

The Francigena Way was the most important road in Italy in the Middle Ages. The Longobards chose it as strategic axis for the conquest of byzantine dominions. From Pavia, center of the italic reign, to Rome, the Appennine route of the step of the Cisa, (coinciding with the step of the longobard Mount Bardone), was an obligatory choice for the Longobards. The coastal roads, Aurelia, Flaminia, Emilia and the inner one, the Cassia, in the byzantine Esarcate territories were too dangerous. The Longobard Kings ensured the safety of the way through the foundation of monastries and abbeys, controlling politically and administratively the territory and at the same time, giving "spiritual" services and recovery to the pilgrims.

From the IX century, this road was called Via Francesca, coming from the reign of the Francs, and then took the new denomination of Francigena. The importance of the pilgrimage, related to the deep spirituality of the Middle Ages, contributed to the cultural development of the Francigena Way with the mixing of languages and peoples.

In Lunigiana, the Francigena Way began passing the step of the Cisa, reaching Montelungo, where the Monastery of San Benedetto, today destroyed, offered hospitality. It then came down to Pontremoli, where in the church of San Pietro is still conserved a fragment in sandstone representing the Maze, symbol of the pilgrimages. The road headed towards Filattiera, through Ponticello, with Pieve di Sorano and the church of San Giorgio. Here there is a stone with an epigraph of the VIII century, witnessing the passing of the pilgrims. From Filattiera, the Francigena Way continued to Villafranca, where the Malaspina family imposed heavy tolls for the passage at the Malnido castle, today in ruins. In Fornoli, near VillaFranca there is still part of the old pavement near "la Chiesaccia". The Francigena then followed the Magra River reaching Aulla and then entering Santo Stefano Magra and then into Luni and finally to Massa.

Cafes and Restaurants
Fivizzano
There are several bars in Fivizzano and a few restaurants. Recommendations are: 
Il Giardinetto dal 1882 Via Roma tel: 0585 92060 – lovely old fashioned restaurant with excellent traditional food – good value. Great atmosphere in this over 100 year old restaurant especially on a Sunday when the Italian families eat out together. (You will need to book). Good house wines. Closed on Mondays.

Caffe Elvetico in the Piazza Medicea is a traditional café where lots of people in town meet. This is also a great place for sampling local food and wines or for a pre-dinner aperitivo.

Gelateria Ricci in the Piazza Medicea (opposite Caffe Elvetico) makes very good ice cream.  You can buy small or large quantities in polystyrene containers to take home. Also good for cappuccinos and aperitivi. Closed on Mondays.

La Locanda del Borgo Antico Tucked away in the road leading out of the top left-hand corner of the Piazza. Open at lunchtimes and sometimes in the evenings as well in the summer. Good value, packed with workmen up to about 1:15pm and then the professionals arrive! No menu and no need to book! Closed Saturdays.

Pizzeria Excalibur in Verrucola just above Fivizzano.Tel: 0585 92055. Open in the evenings for pizza and pasta. A lovely place to go for a stroll around the hamlet and castle before supper. Closed Tuesdays.

Further afield
Ristorante Pizzeria Dolce Isola at Cormezzano on the SS63 in the direction of Aulla and only 5kms from Fivizzano. Excellent seafood and pizzas, pleasant surroundings and staff and very good value. Frequented by the locals and open every days for lunch and supper.

Locanda del Lucido in Aiola on the road to Equi Terme. Tel: 0585 97547. A great restaurant with a fabulous succession of antipasti and superb pasta dishes.  Closed Wednesdays.

Albergo San Paolo up the 63 road to Passo Cerreto about 7kms from Fivizzano.  Excellent traditional Italian food using fresh ingredients and very good value.

Al Vecchio Tino Tel: 0585 97733  Monte dei Bianchi, Localita’ Germalla, 1, Comune di Fivizzano.  Really fantastic restaurant with superb view, stunning views and very good value.

La Filastrocca di Vito Mancino, Piazza S.Francesco 1, Pontremoli. Tel: 0187 460608 Fabulous food, charming and friendly – well worth visiting.

Ristorante Albergo Alpi Apuane, Via F.Turati 155, Pallerone di Aulla Tel: 0187 418045 Closed Monday & Sunday evenings. Well worth trying – best in the evening!

Mini Hotel di Ambrogio Gabanti, Via Primo Tonini 78, Gramolazzo (near Lucca) Tel: 0583 610153

Rolando Ristorante Via Roma, Barbarasco Tel: 0187 477371 Specialites funghi and game. Closed Tuesdays.

Locanda di Bacco Via S. Giorgio 36, Lucca Tel: 0583 493136 Closed Tuesdays. Excellent food – definitely worth having lunch here if you visit Lucca.

I Santi Via dell’Anfiteatro 29a, Lucca Tel: 0583 496124 Closed Wednesdays. Highly recommended.

Trattoria Locanda Lazzaro Borgo XX Marzo 14, Parma Tel: 208944  Fantastic little place – excellent food and really cheap.

Ristorante dei Pescatori Via Doria 6, Lerici Tel: 0187 965534 Closed Mondays. Incredible place – lots of courses of delicious fish and seafood. No need to read from a menu, excellent house wine. You can either eat inside the restaurant or out in the piazza.

Marina Piccola Manarola, Cinque Terre Tel: 0187 920103 Closed Tuesdays. If you visit the Cinque Terre then this is THE place to eat! Situated right on the sea front – it’s the perfect place to linger over a long lunch.

Walks, sights and excursions

It’s worth buying a map of Lunigiana: you’ll probably get lost with it; definitely without it. 

Around Fivizzano

Between Moncigoli and Soliera there are stunning views of the mountains to your left. If you are going to the coast by car, it’s worth taking this detour, especially on your way back in the evening. In Fivizzano the library (opposite the town hall) is worth a visit: it is an old convent with restored frescoes (interesting but not great art) in the cloisters. Next door, see the Church Tower, but no church: it fell down in an earthquake in the 1920’s. There are good photos of this in the side room of Caffe Elvetico as well. The town hall has good cartouches and tablets commemorating heroes of the risorgimento. The fountain was a gift from a Tuscan grand duke and has rather fine white dolphins and ironwork. The central part is a later ‘romantic’ excrescence (a monstrous carbuncle).

Towards the top of the street towards La Locanda del Borgo Antico are the grand palazzi of the 18th/19th century rich who spent their Summers in the cool of the town instead of sweltering in such places as Milan. There is a fine walled garden in the highest palazzo (Fantoni) on the left. If you turn left here, just before the old North gate of the town, you can then walk back along the ancient town walls, with great views across the valley. Between the church and the walls are many small alleyways to explore, with interesting wall plaques and old houses.

Around Fivizzano and the surrounding area
The main road (63) above the town first passes the castle of Verrucola, restored by and lived in by an Italian sculptor, some of whose works can be seen in the hamlet that hugs the castle base. It’s worth walking around to see these and the view down the valley towards Fivizzano.

The 63 then twists and turns its way up to the Passo del Cerreto, the border between Tuscany and Emilia Romagna, with spectacular views of the valley and mountain on the way. The alpine botanical gardens (orto botanico) on the left near the top, are well worth visiting. There is also a great walk down through chestnut groves to the river and the village of Sassalbo. It is marked with red and white signs on rocks and trees etc. A road right at the top of the 63 takes you to the small ski resort of Lago del Cerreto, where there is also a year-round ice-skating rink.

If you fancy exploring, take any of the side roads off the 63. You’ll be rewarded by coming across tiny mountain villages and marvellous views over the ranges. If you drive over to the valley of the Taverona you will reach Licciana Nardi and going the other way there are great drives towards Casola in Lunigiana.

The drive through the mountains to Carrara (famous for its marble) is also fabulous but it takes a long time as is the drive over the mountains to the wonderful town of Lucca – stunning but a much longer journey than the motorway route. Parking is outside the city walls and inside the city walls there is interesting architecture, delightful streets with elegant shops and historic buildings.

Pontremoli – Just north of Aulla, the medieval town of Pontremoli is worth a visit with its small cathedral, lovely Piazza della Repubblica and narrow streets in which to wander.  The Trattoria da Fernando is well worth visiting for lunch.

Equi Terme – Just 23 km from Cotto, Equi Terme is in a beautiful setting with dramatic waterfalls, sulpher springs ad caves. There is an outdoor spa where one can swim in the pool with water from the springs.

Parma – A charming town with beautiful architecture – not touristy and very unspoilt. The Cathedral is fabulous. 

Sarzana – enchanting little town with lovely piazza, stylish shops and bars.

Festival of Puccini, Torre del Lago 19th July-24th August
This year includes performances of Manon Lescaut, Turandot, Madame Butterfly and Tosca featuring Andrea Bocelli.

Cinque Terre, Liguria - well worth visiting are the beautiful Cinque Terre on the Ligurian coast. Along the coast from Portovenere and Lerici are the 'five lands'  originally only accessible by boat or on foot. Now, visitors take arrive by car or train -  we recommend taking the train from La Spezia (cheap and frequent) and visiting the villages of Riomaggiore, Manarola, Vernazza, Monterosso and Corniglia. The walking paths are relatively easy and the views are astonishing. For more information on Liguria please take a look at our Liguria information section or take a look at Montefino, a fabulous villa in Portofino.
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Chianti & Val d'Elsa

Between Florence and Siena is the area of Chianti and to the west is the Val d'Elsa, areas of manicured vineyards and olive groves, of pretty villages and towns with magical views and a feeling of having stepped back in time. Visitors to this part of Tuscany can combine visits to all the famous sites of Florence and Siena and also enjoy the smaller towns of San Gimignano, Volterra, Greve in Chianti and Colle Val d'Elsa.

Florence
Florence (Firenze) was the birthplace of the Renaissance, a city imbued with grace and harmony surrounded by hills dotted with villas and villages. Florence's apparent order and dignity rests on a history of strife. The city was born when a fissure in Etruscan tribes occasioned some members to leave the Fiesole hill and settle by the river. A Roman encampment followed, leaving behind the via Romana and the name Florentina, meaning, prophetically "destined to flourish". Goths, Byzantines and Lombards followed, then clashing Guelphs and Ghibelines, warring Blacks and Whites, and the deadly Black Plague which wiped out half the city in the 14th Century.

The Florentine Renaissance was dominated by the Medici family, rulers and patrons of the arts from the 1300s to the 1700s;yet despite the appearance of harmony and balance, Florence holds its surprises. Sober streets leading from Piazza San Giovanni suddenly lead one to the Duomo with its 19th century facade of marble - green from Prato, pink form the Maremma, white from Carrara - and the Campanile with similar decoration. Then to the Baptistry, dating from the 9th Century with its glittering mosaics in the interior and its famous gilded bronze doors outside. It is probably here that the the Renaissance was born, the north doors being a contest between Ghilberti and Brunelleschi.

In Florence art, history, science and literature are inextricably woven into city life and there is more than enough a keep visitors busy for weeks on end be it a visit to the Pitti Palace, the cloistered convent of San Marco with the beautiful frescoes by Fra Angelico, the Uffizi Gallery with its rooms of Raphaels, Lippis, Titians and Botticellis or the much famed Ponte Vecchio, lined with jewelers' shops since 1593.

Siena
Siena is truly delightful - smaller and more relaxed than Florence. it is like stepping back into the Middle Ages. Formed by the confluence of the three hills on which Siena is built, the remarkable chevron shaped Campo (square) is divided into nine sections, commemorating the beneficient rule of the Council of Nine "Good Men" who governed Siena from the mid-1th through the early 14th centuries.

Twice a year on July 2 and August 16 the Sienese recreate their medieval heritage in the Palio, a sumptuous pageant-cum-horserace around the Campo. Residents of the city's contrada (districts) pack the square as their representative horses and riders race around the Campo and the rider who wins the Palio, an heraldic banner, becomes an instant hero.

At the base of the Campo is the Palazzo Pubblico, with its crennealted facade and waving heraldic banners. From the top of the tower (a climb of 500 steps) there is a fabulous panorama of the city. Much of the Palazzo Pubblico has been given over to the Museo Civico which houses some of the city's greatest treasures including Lorenzetti's Allegory of Good and Bad Government depicting the entire sweep of medieval society.

Heading up one of the streets from the Campo one reaches the Piazza del Duomo and the impressive facade of the vast striped Duomo (cathedral) of green, pink and white marble. Inside are the equally stunning geometric patterns in black and white as well as 15th and 16th century inlaid paving depicting allegories and scenes of the New Testament. Inside the Libreria Piccolimini are frescoes by Pintorecchio showing scenes from the life of Pope Pius 11. Near the Duomo one should also visit the Museo dell'Opera Metropolitana and the Pinacoteca Nazionale (the Picture Gallery). The Cathedral Museum's main attraction is the entire room devoted to the works of Duccio, including his moving Maesta.

Between Florence and Siena lies Chianti with its pristine vineyards, olive trees, woods and pretty villages - worth visiting are Castellina in Chianti, Gaiole in Chianti, Radda in Chianti and Greve in Chianti and visitors will find all these delightful places by travelling along the Via Chiantigiana. Famous Chianti wines are produced here and the Gallo Nero (Black Cockerel) is the emblem of these fabulous wines and symbol of the medieval Chianti League. It recalls the meeting of two knights who were to have ridden out from Siena and Florence exactly at cockcrow, towards each other, along the Via Chiantigiana. Their meeting point was supposed to establish the future boundary between the warring cities. The black cockerel of Florence, scrawny and underfed, woke his rider up much earlier than the pampered Sienese cockerel and consequently the riders met at Fonterutoli, much nearer Siena than Florence.

It is well worth visiting some of the castles and wineries such as Castello di Brolio, Castello di Uzzano, Tenuta di Coltibuono or Volpaia. Fattoria Vignale in Radda in Chianti is an excellent wine-producing estate and Castellina has a summer festival on weekends in August where one can taste gastronomic specialities from stalls in the streets.

West of Chianti is the Val d'Elsa and San Gimignano, considered to be one of the country's best preserved medieval towns. Just thirteen of the seventy (or more) towers remain and despite being a popular tourist destination San Gimignano is worth a visit- ideally out of the main summer season. Nearby is Volterra, an ancient city with Etruscan walls, famous for its alabaster. Situated at 520 metres Volterra really is a 'hilltown' and from the Balze one can enjoy breathtaking views of the surrounding countryside. Colle di Val d'Elsa, unspoilt and charming, is certainly worth a visit and is on the Via Francigena.

The history of Colle di Val d'Elsa is characterised by frequent episodes of violence. One of the most famous of these was the batde of 1269 between the Guelphs and Ghibellines, which had considerable repercussions on the political balance in Tuscany. During the Sixteenth century, Colle di Val d'Elsa was still part of the Florentine sphere, but was gradually gaining power, mainly thanks to the de Medici family and to the illustrious people of Colle who handled the town's administration. After the Siena war and the constitution of the grand duchy of Tuscany, in 1592 with the Bill passed by Clemente VIII, Colle became the seat of a new diocese. In the 17th century, the Usimbardi family opened a new chapter in the modern history of Colle di Val d'Elsa. At the beginning of this new era the paper industry was replaced by the new iron and glass industries. The production of glass followed by crystal characterised the industrial activiy of Colle di Val d'Elsa, which became known as the Bohemia of Italy in the 19 century. Today it is an authentic "Crystal City", producing 15% of the world's crystal. 

Monteriggioni, a small walled hilltop village outside Siena, is a beautifully preserved medieval fortified village, built on a hillock. The circle of walls, dating from the 13th Century and the largest of its kind in Tuscany to have survived practically intact, has fourteen towers. Monteriggioni is mentioned by Dante: Divina Commedia. Inferno, xxxi. 41-44 '...come in su la cerchia londa Monteriggioni di torri si corona'.
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Southern Tuscany

South of Siena the scenery changes with more open landscape including the 'Le Crete Sinesi', a beautiful area to travel through, especially before the harvest when the cornfields and sunflowers gild the hills with different shades of yellow and the clumps of cypresses are given an almost surreal air. The SS2 from Siena is part of the Via Francigena and this particular stretch is called the Via Cassia. This captivating landscape is home to many delightful hilltop towns and the much documented Val d'Orcia.

Buonconvento - 14th century town with friendly atmosphere and a good market. Nearby is the Abbey of Monte Oliveto Maggiore, where the frescoes by  Signorelli and Sodoma make a detour most worthwhile.

Montalcino- famous for its superb Brunello di Montalcino, Montalcino derives its name from the oak trees recorded in its Latin name: Mons Ilcinis and the symbol of the Consorzio is the holm oak. The castle of Montalcino was the last fortress of the Sienese Republic to hold out against the Florentines. Conquered in 1559, some four centuries passed before the town erected a plaque in the fortress to record the shame of the 'Medici Robbers'.  The creation of Brunello goes to the ancestor of its most famous producers: the Biondi Santi family. It was Clemente Santi who created Brunello in the 1850's and it is Franco Biondi Santi and his son Jacopo who continue the tradition today. Their wines are fabulously long-lived and fabulously expensive too! Due to the public demand for younger, fruitier reds there has subsequently been the creation of a younger cousin of Brunello called Rosso di Montalcino - a very attractive fruity wine of some finesse despite its youth.

Montepulciano - About half an hour away from Montalcino is its rival, Montepulciano, the zone of the spendidly named Vino Nobile. Driving through this countryside is magical and as one arrives the first feture one sees is the Renaissance Church of San Biagio, halfway up the slope. Montepulciano is a beautiful Renaissance city full of palaces and a 14th century town hall (the Palazzo Communale) reminiscent of Florence's Palazzo Vecchio with arguably the prettiest piazza in all Italy. Montepulciano, like its wine, is cetainly very nobile and if one visits Palazzo Avignonesi, one can taste some of the best wine in Tuscany - Vino Nobile, Grifi and and excellent Chardonnay.

In August on the last Sunday each year is the Bravio delle Botti - a costume parade followed by wine-barrel race!

Pienza - A small, charming and historicall significant town, Pienza is a jewel and a must for visitors to Southern Tuscany. Pienza is the earliest example of Renaissance town planning and had the great good fortune to be the birthplace of Aeneas Silvio Piccolimini; Pope Pius 11, and was largely rebuilt by him in a few years, from 1459. He enlisted the services of  Bernardino Rossellino and the medieval village was erbuilt with beautiful palaces such as Palazzo Piccolimini and has largely remained undisturbed. There are a couple of exellent restaurants in the small piazza and visitors should take a walk around the town walls and enjoy the panoramic views of the surrounding Tuscan countryside.

Exploring the Val d'Orcia is delightful with is never ending hills, interspersed with torrents, ravines, rugged outcrops and riverbanks. There are numerous other interesting towns to explore such as Cetona, Sarteano, San Casciano di Bagni (with its thermal baths), Radicofani and Monticiello.
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Lucca & environs

16th century walls, redesigned in the early 19th century to include a lovely tree-lined promenade at the crest, serve as a perfect introduction to the serene beauty of the city of Lucca within. The historic centre of Lucca is consequently perfectly preserved with landmarks diverse in appearance and history - from a medieval maze of alleyways to the Roman grid-like arrangement of passageways, from Renaissance loggias to Rococco facades. It is well worth taking a walk around the well-preserved city walls from which one can enjoy the contrasting views: from fertile plains to the Apuan Alps. Lucca is a distinctive looking town with anicent piazzas and a spendid marble-faced Duomo. Inside, a filigree of slender pillars reveals glimpses of starstudded ceiling, gold against deepest blue.

Lucca flourished in the Middle Ages as a banking and merchant centre, known principally for its beautiful silk whilst today the city is said to produce the finest olive oil in the world. The centre of the town, the Piazza Napoleone (the city was a Napoleonic principality), contains a monument that embodies Lucca's character: a statue of Marie Louise de Bourbon, the proud and elegant duchess who later ruled Lucca. The Anfiteatro Romano is certainly worth visiting - here, an oval of medieval homes embraces the perimeter of what used to be the 2nd Century Roman amphitheatre - and nearby is the Torre dell'Ove, a clock tower which has ticked off the hours since 1471.

Wondering around the streets of Lucca is delightful and outside the city itself are many elegant and beautiful villas - the Royal Villa Reale, the sculpture-studded Villa Torrigiani, the frescoe-filled Villa Garzoni and Villa Mansi at Segromigno - all testaments to Lucca's wealth, nobility and beauty. Travelling north of Lucca one heads into the foothills of the Appenines and the Colline Lucchesi, home to many notable wine and olive oil poducers, and beyond here to Bagni di Lucca and Barga and Castelnuovo di Garfagnano and into Lunigiana. To the south of Lucca is the village of Vorno, also home to a number of impressive villas, and just west of Lucca is Camaiore, Pietrasanta and the old seaside towns of Forte di Marmi and Viareggio.  The Lucchese nobility has vacationed here for centuries and Shelley's body washed up on the shores at Viareggio after he was shipwrecked in 1822. Now, the beaches here are busy and overdeveloped and it is advisable to head either north to Lerici and the Cinque Terre or further south to Porto Ercole and Monte Argentario.
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Maremma & Argentario

If one drives south beyond Grosetto towards Lazio one reaches Monte Argentario and the Maremma.

The area known as the Maremma begins south of Livorno and forms a coastal plain running to the very southern end of Tuscany. Famous for cowboys (the butteri), Etruscans and naturally heated springs this is a different and relatively undiscovered Tuscany, with several large nature reserves, well-kept hill towns and countless Roman and Etruscan ruins.

Punta Ala is an exclusive resort and a fabulous location for sailing and watersports with the island of Elba just across the water. Further south is Monte Argentario, a peninsula linked to the coast by three slender roadways, boasts the delightful unspoilt yet smart 'resort' of Porto Ercole. This delightful area boasts a stunning coastline with the islands of Giannutri and Giglio just a short boat ride away and the fabulous hotel Il Pellicano is found here. The smart village of Ansedonia with exclusive villas and extensive sandy beach is across the bay from Monte Argentario and inland are pretty hilltop towns such as Capalbio and Pitigliano.
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Tuscan Cuisine

Tuscany is famous for its simple foods and the Tuscans are preoccupied with the quality of the raw ingredients. The extra-vergine olive oil is so fruity, rich and thick, it is almost a meal in itself but its main purpose is to bring out the flavour of cooked foods. Bistecca alla fiorentina and ribollita (bean soup that is cooked twice), is delicious laced with local oliva oil. A lot of Tuscan food is very much 'peasant food' - simple and delicious with superb ingredients from the rich and fertile land.

Fegato (liver) is a favourite in Tuscany and crostini are often served with a delicious liver and anchovy paste. Pasta is not a traditional Tuscan food but it does appear in dishes which combine the hunter's catch such as papparedelle alla lepre - wide ribbon noodles with a hare sauce. Hunting is, and always has been, a keen preoccupation for Tuscans and many Tuscan dishes incorporate cinghiale (wild boar), coniglio (rabbit), piccione (pigeon) or uccelletti (small birds).

On the coast there are several fish specialities: Triglie alla livornese (rud mullet cooked with tomatoes, garlic and ginger) and Baccala (salt cod), a speciality of Livorno cooked with tomatoes and potatoes.

Finocchio (fennel), is baked with butter and parmesan as an accompaniment to roast meats, and is used to great effect to flavour a special type of salami, the finocchiona.

Tuscany is, of course, also well known for its cantuccini (crunchy almond biscuits) served with Vin Santo and also Panforte, the rich biscuit cake made in Siena using nuts, dried fruits and spices.
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