Amalfi Coast

The southern end of the Bay of Naples stretches out in a peninsula that reaches towards the Isle of Capri. Sorrento, looks back towards Naples from the north coast of the peninsula. The southern side of the peninsula is dotted with picturesque villages and towns clinging giddily to cliffs; this is what is known as the Amalfi Coast.

For decades these fishing villages, stacked precariously above the sea, have been one of Italy's major tourist attractions. Well-accustomed to catering for affluent foreign tourists, the area offers a generous selection of restaurants, bars, boutiques, boat trips.. just about anything self-indulgent that you can spend money on. The views are undeniably breathtaking, and away from the main road and the tourist hot-spots you can still discover the peace that charmed earlier visitors.

Amalfi Coast Holiday Information
The main town of the coast is, of course, Amalfi, and this makes a good base for exploring the area. Two very special and beautiful destinations are Ravello and Positano. Ravello is famous for its beautiful gardens perched high in the mountains above the sea, and for its classical music concerts. Positano is on the coast to the west of Amalfi, and is a stylish and sophisticated town with excellent restaurants and pretty boutiques and of course the fabulous Le Sirenuse Hotel.

Amalfi Coast Travel Information
The coastal road along the Amalfi Coast is famous for its hairpin bends, fantastic views and natural beauty. In the summer months the road can be quite busy as it winds along the cliffs, affording glimpses of blue sea directly below. The towns are all built at a very steep angle, so streets zigzag backwards and forwards. Many buildings - including hotels - are only accessible by steep alleys and stairways.

The public transport along the coast is cheap and fairly efficient. A company called SITA runs blue buses along the coast, from Salerno to Amalfi, from Amalfi to Sorrento, and from Amalfi to Ravello. Other small buses provide transport within the towns.
Ferries connect the principal towns of the Amalfi Coast area, and can be much quicker than buses. Travelmar (tel. +39 089 872950) run connections between Salerno, Minori, Amalfi, Positano and Sorrento. In Salerno there is a tourist information office to your right as you leave the station; they can give you a timetable for the boats. Salerno to Amalfi takes 35 minutes, and costs €4, with eight departures daily in each direction.
The nearest airport to the Amalfi Coast is Naples Capodichino.

Ravello is one of the most attractive destinations on the Amalfi Coast. With a population of around 2,000, the settlement perches high above Amalfi, overlooking the Mediterranean. A renowned musical festival is held in Ravello every year, with classical music concerts taking place in gardens with breathtaking views, all through the summer months.

Ravello, perched high on the cliffs above Amalfi, is famous for its views and its gardens. The town was once part of the Republic of Amalfi; now it is a peaceful historic village popular with tourists and honeymooners. The principal Ravello tourist attractions are the two famous gardens, Villa Cimbrone and Villa Rufolo. Both of these panoramic gardens are open to the public, and you can wander through the tropical plants and enjoy fabulous views of the coastline.
Ravello also has an impressive cathedral, the venerable Duomo, dedicated to San Pantaleone whose blood is a treasured relic.

The Ravello Tourist Information Office is easy to find in Piazza Duomo.

Ravello Concerts

The dreamlike setting of Ravello's gardens inspired Wagner, and it's fitting that today music is a major feature of Ravello. The Ravello Concert Society organises a long season of chamber music concerts (March-November), most of which are held against a backdrop of sky and sea in the panoramic gardens of Wagner's inspiration for Parsifal, the Villa Rufolo. The Society's website is www.rcs.amalficoast.it/; you can check dates and buy tickets online. If there's a concert on when you're in Ravello, you really shouldn't miss the opportunity to attend. The combination of scenery and music creates an atmosphere that you're unlikely to forget.

Positano was once a wealthy maritime power, it began the last century as a fishing settlement, and ended it as a popular, and rather chi-chi resort, famous for its hotels and boutiques as well as for the winding stairways that connect the town, and the towering cliffs above. Every inch of land is prized; buildings are stacked up one above the other on the steep slopes, and open areas are intensively cultivated with fruit and vegetables thriving in the fertile volcanic soil.

The mountainous interior of the peninsula rises above the town, and Positano boasts one the world's few 'pierced' mountains; a giant shoulder of rock with a hole punched through it (a miracle performed by the Virgin Mary, according to local folklore).
Positano history

Positano was once part of the powerful Republic of Amalfi, and played its part in international trading despite the lack of a harbour. Surviving Saracen raids, the town thrived and in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries was famous for its trading with the East. Impressive palazzi were built; several are now romantically crumbling, others have been converted into luxury hotels. With the onset of the industrial revolution, harbourless Positano could not compete with rival ports, and had to wait until the birth of the tourist industry to regain its wealthy status.

The holiday 'season' extends approximately from June to the end of September. The town is still alive and pleasant outside that period, although bus and ferry services could be reduced. If you want to avoid the crowds, October/November is a nice time to visit.
The atmosphere in Positano is cosmopolitan and international, while still feeling safe and restful.

Things to see
If you're bored of shopping, eating and relaxing, Positano has several churches of interest, most notably the Duomo by the beach, with its green and gold dome. The white-and-gold interior is airy and attractive and merits a visit, and the tiny piazza outside, where boys kick footballs around.

For a pleasant excursion, take the bus up to Montepertuso, where you can admire the hole in the mountain. Montepertuso is a sleepy village, lost in olive groves, which has a bar and a couple of restaurants. There are some good walks in the area, and many walking groups pass through Montepertuso, stopping for refreshments in the small piazza. The church has a spectacular setting, above the tiny houses of Positano, with the beautiful Galli Islands as a backdrop. To the right of the church is a path that will take you all the way back down to Positano. The walk takes about an hour and is surprisingly easy; if you don't mind a lot of steps. Views are fantastic as you drop down towards the sea, through picturesque terraced olive groves and allotments.

Positano beaches
In a region where rocky cliffs descend straight to the water, Positano is unusual in that it has a couple of dark and gravelly beaches. Sections are cordoned-off stabilimenti, where you pay to use a sunbed, but parts are spiaggia libera, free beach, where anyone can put down their towels and enjoy the water. If you want a bit more peace than is afforded by the central beach, take the path above the water's edge to the quieter bay at Fornillo (to the west, or your right as you face the sea).

Positano food, drink and nightlife
There are few truly cheap options in Positano, but the choice for eating is wide and there should be something for everyone. Restaurants line the back of the beach; if the atmosphere is too noisy and touristy for you, try ascending the steps or roads to a quieter spot. Along Viale Pasitea there are a few nice places to eat, including the excellent Da Vincenzo. For absolute peace, and the sound of waves lapping against rocks, follow the path just above the sea towards Fornillo. A little way past the tower you'll find Lo Guarracino, a restaurant on a terrace above the sea with excellent and affordable pizzas and seafood.
If you're looking for somewhere to have a drink, at the end of the main beach is the prettily located Music on the Rocks, which is reputedly dressy and expensive. La Zagara tearoom (Via dei Mulini, 6) offers drinks and gorgeous desserts on a terrace, and has live music at night. Higher up on Viale Pasitea, you can sit at tables overlooking the water in a more peaceful environment, and hear live Neapolitan music.

Positano ballet
Positano is also known for its ballet associations. Diaghilev, impresario of Ballets Russes fame, Nijinsky, Massine (who owned the Galli Islands) and Stravinsky all spent time in Positano. Positano remained a popular destination for the ballet world, attracting famous guests such as Margot Fonteyn, Antony Tudor, John Cranko and Carla Fracci. Rudolf Nureyev bought one of the islands as a private retreat. Since 1969, the annual Massine ballet prizes have been awarded in Positano every September. The awards ceremony, with performances by prize-winners, takes place on the first weekend of September, under the stars on the beach - a magical and unforgettable experience.

Amalfi is the principal jewel of the famous Amalfi Coast in Campania, Italy. The largest and most popular resort on this mountainous stretch of coastline, Amalfi is a popular holiday base for tourists wanting to explore the area. The Republic of Amalfi was once a major seafaring power, and the town's traditions and historical buildings bear witness to Amalfi's glorious past.
The main holiday season runs from Spring until Autumn, with the peak times being from June until September. The area is still very pleasant - and hotels will be cheaper - outside these months, but bear in mind that some attractions and accommodation may be closed, and boat trips will be fewer.

Things to see
Amalfi's ninth-century Duomo is one of the town's greatest attractions. It dominates the town's central piazza, sitting atop a wide flight of steps. The cloister (Chiostro del Paradiso) and museum close by (joint admission ticket) house sculptures, mosaics and other relics of the town's wealthy past. The Arsenal by the sea is a monument to the maritime past of Amalfi.

The town is small, but you can easily while away an afternoon exploring the narrow white alleyways and browsing in the shops for souvenirs - including every variation on the famous local lemon products. You can sample the Amalfitana specialities, such as delicious limoncello - an excellent digestivo made from lemons. There are plenty of nice cafes where you can rest with a drink, eating pastries and watching the world go by. A stroll along the sea front is another pleasant diversion. The town's harbour is to the right as you face the sea, and past the public ferry ports there is a marina where luxury yachts rub shoulders with working fishing vessels laden with nets. Walking out along one of the breakwaters provides good photo opportunities back towards the town centre. When you're tired of admiring Amalfi's charms, you can take a stroll up the valley through lemon groves and old paper mills. For keen walkers, the steep mountainsides offer many challenging walks. A good guidebook such as the Sunflower guide will help you when planning hikes in the area.

Amalfi beaches
Amalfi has a small beach, which gets very busy on summer weekends. There are several bathing establishments where you can hire beds, towels etc. and there is also a stretch of free beach. Walking around the headland to Atrani gives you the option of a second beach, which may be less crowded.

Amalfi Excursions and Day Trips
Since Amalfi is well-connected by public transport (see below), it's fairly easy to see more of the area. Naples, Pompei and Herculaneum are all long days out for those with an interest in archeology and plenty of energy.